Little remains of Japan's famous cherry blossoms except a few pale pink petals caught by the wind and swirling in the gutter. But as I watch these petals dance, in the corner of my eye I catch sight of a burst of color--a vivid shade of magenta smiling at me from the hedge that divides … Continue reading Amazing Azaleas
In the opening scene of the 1968 movie, "Admiral Yamamoto", starring the great Mifune Toshiro, Yamamoto is being ferried across a river in his hometown and is challenged by the boatman to make the crossing standing on his head, thereby demonstrating his superior balance and seamanship. Perhaps because I know there was a time in … Continue reading A traditional river crossing…and meandering old neighborhoods
By special guest blogger: Oliver Trapnell Harajuku is a popular Tokyo neighbourhood. So much so that many might conclude that it is a guaranteed tourist trap, luring us into the packed, pop-idol lifestyle that permeates the area. More than often than not, a visitor here can end up being swept along Takeshita Street by the … Continue reading Looking for the sweet edges of Harajuku
"Modern" Japan dates from the Meiji Restoration of 1868. During the reign of the Emperor Meiji (1868-1912), Japan modernized and Westernized. This transformation included not only Japan's political, economic, and education systems, but also various aspects of fine arts. With respect to the latter, many feared that Japan's cultural identity might be lost in the … Continue reading Nihonga: Distinctly Japanese Modern Art
Stepping into the latest exhibition at Shibuya's Toguri Museum of Art, I felt as if I was in heaven. The exhibition, entitled "Beautiful Glazes in Ko-Imari Ware", features the glazes used on Ko-Imari ware, some of Japan's earliest refined porcelains, dating back to the 17th century. The pieces on display are exquisite. It was refugee … Continue reading The colors of Ko-Imari: it’s all about the glaze
Old stone quarries are fascinating places to explore. They are full of man-made shapes and angles that nature is working to reclaim. At Nokogiriyama (lit. Sawtooth Mountain) in Chiba--a perfect distance for a day trip from Tokyo--, part of the mountain was quarried away over several decades, leaving lots of fun nooks and crannies to … Continue reading Nokogiriyama – stepping it up on Sawtooth Mountain
Old Edo was a firetrap. One and two-story structures, made mostly of wood, straw and paper, standing cheek-by-jowl with the neighbors, with everyone cooking and heating with open fires or charcoal braziers. Any little fire quickly got out of control and equally quickly spread to neighboring structures. Major fires were so common in the Edo … Continue reading Hashigo-nori (ladder-top acrobatics) at Ikegami Honmonji
This article takes readers on a walk to visit Japan's seven lucky gods at shrines and temples in the Minato neighborhood of Tokyo. Such walks are a popular new year's activity, said to bring luck and fortune to participants. This walk can only be done for that purpose between New Year's Day and Coming of … Continue reading The seven lucky gods of Minato: A different perspective on a well-known Tokyo district
In traditional Japan there are many rituals observed relating to seeing out the old year and successfully bringing in the new one. Sometimes these rituals, most of which occur in December, also involve acquiring “lucky charms” of various sorts. Asakusa, a venerable Tokyo neighbourhood known for its efforts to preserve traditions, is a particularly good … Continue reading Good fortune is child’s play at the Asakusa Hagoita Ichi
Who doesn't love a good open air market? And this time of year, German-style Christmas markets are particularly popular in Japan. The lights, music, and festive atmosphere are great to put one in the mood for Christmas. Last year I visited the Tokyo Christmas Market at Hibiya Park, which is on again this year through … Continue reading Christmas spirit in Yokohama
I remember well the first time I visited Yanaka Cemetery. It was 25 years ago and I was in Tokyo on a business trip, planning to stay over for the weekend to catch up with my graduate school roommate who was then living in Yanaka. Following her instructions, I got off the train at Nippori … Continue reading Yanaka Cemetery – seasonal serenity
Tokyo has a few interesting older homes that are open to the public and many, many art museums. My favorite place that ticks both boxes is the Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum, colloquially known as Prince Asaka's palace, and I've written about it before. As a museum, Prince Asaka's palace sometimes closes while new exhibits … Continue reading Decoration and Art Deco
