On a clear winter's day in 1634, Tokugawa Iemitsu, the third shogun of the Tokugawa dynasty, was riding his horse south of Edo Castle, together with a number of retainers. He was returning to the castle from having worshipped at Zojoji Temple, a major temple complex with which the Tokugawa family have a long and … Continue reading Atago Hill – success is on the rise
Dorokyo Gorge is a deep valley carved by the waters of the Kitayama River. The gorge sits in the Yoshino-Kumano National Park at the point where Wakayama, Nara and Mie prefectures meet on the Kii Peninsula. The vertical cliffs at the deepest part of the gorge make it difficult to access...unless you go in by … Continue reading Amazing Scenery in Dorokyo Gorge
Earlier this week I was privileged to attend a Tokyo preview screening of Silence, Martin Scorsese's film adaptation of Shusaku Endo's 1966 novel. I had read the novel more than 30 years ago and am pleased to see it brought to life relatively faithfully. The story centers on a fictitious 17th century Jesuit priest, Father … Continue reading Silence: On the trail of Japan’s Hidden Christians
I ease my freshly scrubbed self into the hotel's large bath. It's very hot, but not so hot that I am unable to sit myself down. I immerse up to my chin, close my eyes and sigh. La dolce far niente! Although I'm not in Italy, this is the phrase that runs through my mind … Continue reading Taking the waters at Kusatsu Onsen
It is a few seconds past midnight. The temple bell rings once, its low sonorous tone echoing across the heads of the people in the crowd gathered at the foot of the belfry. The priest who had rung the bell steps out of the belfry, bows to the crowd and says "akemashite omedeto gozaimasu" (happy … Continue reading Magic at midnight: Seeing in the new year Japanese style
