Meguro’s Gyoninzaka – a different slant on Tokyo history

Heading west from Meguro Station it's all downhill, a descent into the Meguro River valley. Particularly dramatic is the descent on a narrow laneway accessed from the main exit of Meguro Station (on the southern side of Meguro-dori). This steep slope is known as Gyonin-zaka. A gyonin is a Buddhist ascetic, and apparently Daienji, a … Continue reading Meguro’s Gyoninzaka – a different slant on Tokyo history

Satsuma Contributions to Meiji Modernization

One of my favorite times in Japanese history is the Meiji Period (1868-1912), when Japan re-opened itself to the world and rapidly modernized. Inevitably it was a time of turmoil. There was substantial economic and social upheaval as Japan industrialized and the rigid structures of shogunal Japan were abandoned. Satsuma Domain (now known as Kagoshima), … Continue reading Satsuma Contributions to Meiji Modernization

Hyuga, where Japan’s imperial dynasty was launched

February 11 is celebrated in Japan as "National Foundation Day", commemorating the date on which Japan's first emperor, Jimmu, ascended to the Chrysanthemum Throne in 660BC. Except…it never happened. Or, at least, there is no evidence that it did. Japan's earliest written records were written by the Chinese around the first century AD and the … Continue reading Hyuga, where Japan’s imperial dynasty was launched

Finding fine porcelain off the beaten track

Without the mineral kaolin, fine porcelain could not exist. It is said that Korean potters first found kaolin in Japan near the village of Arita in Saga Prefecture in 1616, launching Japan's porcelain industry. These days, 80% of Japan’s kaolin actually comes from the Amakusa Islands of Kumamoto Prefecture, another area known for its pottery … Continue reading Finding fine porcelain off the beaten track