Noh, often associated with the masks worn by actors playing certain roles, is widely regarded as Japan's oldest surviving performance art, with 650 years of history. (There are, of course, many older arts, such as Kagura ritual dancing, but those were developed for the entertainment of the gods, not for entertaining humans.) The stories portrayed … Continue reading Saying “yes” to Noh: Oyama’s Takigi Noh Fire Festival
The other day I arranged to catch up with a friend, who suggested we meet in the Mejiro neighborhood, not a part of Tokyo I visit often. As my appointments for the day worked out, I had about an hour and a half to kill between my previous appointment and the set time to meet … Continue reading A little stroll in Ikebukuro
This article provides a different perspective on the splendid beauty of the Nikko area and a different way to see the sights of Nikko. (Archived article – Originally published by Japan Today.)
Thanks to the pandemic, public consumption of alcohol is currently banned in large parts of Japan. What better time to tour a sake brewery? Watanabe Sahei Shoten is a fun and easy to access sake brewery in Tochigi's Nikko area. It was founded in 1842 by an ancestor of Watanabe Yasuhiro, the current proprietor, who … Continue reading The Happy Energy of Sake Brewing: Watanabe Sahei Shoten
In 1590 Japan was in turmoil. There had been civil wars raging intermittently for over a century as various warlords vied to take control and unify the country. Finally it had come down to three men: Oda Nobunaga, Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Tokugawa Ieyasu. After Nobunaga's death in 1582, Hideyoshi was best positioned to prevail and … Continue reading Odawara Castle: guarding the southwest approach to old Edo
In July I moderated a panel discussion at the Foreign Correspondents' Club on Japanese traditional crafts and their struggle to survive and be relevant in our modern world. My summary of that session is in the September issue of Number 1 Shimbun.
A few years ago some friends from the U.S. visited around this time of year. They had a wonderful time in Japan, but observed that they managed to visit Japan during the only time of year when nothing is blooming. Of course, it's the end of summer and most flowers have probably withered away in … Continue reading Mukojima Hyakkaen Garden, a place to find every bloomin’ thing
Sendai became the Tohoku region's premier city under Daimyo (feudal lord) Date Masamune (1567-1636) at the beginning of the Japan's historical Edo Period (1603-1867). Images of Date, and especially his iconic samurai helmet with its ornamental crescent moon, are ubiquitous across the city, which well remembers its founding father. Another way in which Sendai honors … Continue reading Zuihoden: Honoring Sendai’s Date Daimyo
This article provides a fun and interesting five day itinerary for taking advantage of the incredible bargain of the JR East Pass while getting acquainted with the amazing diversity of the "lower" half of the Tohoku region. (Archived article; originally published in Gaijinpot)
This article takes the theme of Japan's post-feudal modernization and goes in search of extant buildings across the Tohoku region that represent that modernization. (Archived article – Originally published by Japan Today.)
Even in the most brutal heat of the Tokyo summer, the opportunity to sit outside relaxing in leafy shade is a welcome one. In Tokyo's Marunouchi business district, just a block from Tokyo Station is a leafy cobblestone street known as Marunouchi Nakadori (or just "Nakadori" to people who spend much time there). As the … Continue reading Marunouchi Street Park: An Urban Respite
During these dog days of summer the stifling heat and heavy air makes most of us feel listless and even sleepy. Even farmers in the field feel it. In the area around Hirosaki, once the center of feudal government for the top end of Honshu island, common folk have, for centuries, had a late summer … Continue reading Neputa vs. Nebuta: Aomori’s illuminated festival floats
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