It was a dark and stormy night. A young Buddhist monk named Kukai was aboard one of four ships crossing the East China Sea from Kyushu to Tang China, fearing, as did all aboard, for his life. He prayed for rescue to Munakata Omikami, a goddess of the sea, and also invoked the help of … Continue reading Chinkokuji: preserving part of Kukai’s legacy
I don't usually write about an event just after it has occurred. It seems unfair to tell readers about something they've just missed. But I will break my own rule this once. Nearly all matsuri, traditional Japanese festivals usually associated with shrines, have been cancelled since the Corona virus pandemic began in 2020 so it … Continue reading Otsu Matsuri: the post-Covid return of a traditional matsuri
This article introduces leisure and sightseeing at Lake Suwa, Nagano's largest lake. It also describes the Suwa Grand Shrines, their history and their major festival, the Onbashira Festival, which takes place in April and May every six years (including in 2022). (Archived article – Originally published by Japan Today.)
Noh, often associated with the masks worn by actors playing certain roles, is widely regarded as Japan's oldest surviving performance art, with 650 years of history. (There are, of course, many older arts, such as Kagura ritual dancing, but those were developed for the entertainment of the gods, not for entertaining humans.) The stories portrayed … Continue reading Saying “yes” to Noh: Oyama’s Takigi Noh Fire Festival
During these dog days of summer the stifling heat and heavy air makes most of us feel listless and even sleepy. Even farmers in the field feel it. In the area around Hirosaki, once the center of feudal government for the top end of Honshu island, common folk have, for centuries, had a late summer … Continue reading Neputa vs. Nebuta: Aomori’s illuminated festival floats
Japan has a long history of group dancing, especially during festivals. The dances might be performed during parades or as performances. Often everyone is dressed in the same yukata or kimono. In 1954, the Shikoku city of Kochi, concerned to boost local morale on the heels of the long struggle of post-war recovery, hit on … Continue reading Yosakoi: Japan’s happy dance
This article introduces two Tohoku destinations with fascinating samurai history and beautiful cherry blossoms. (Archived article – Originally published by Japan Today.)
Not long ago a Japanese friend was telling me about a book he was reading that detailed how Japan historically observed seasons in two week increments. Japan's love of the seasons is undeniable and when I reflected on what my friend was explaining to me, in some ways, I could see it. In particular, it … Continue reading The last celebrations of the new year’s season
Every two years, in odd-numbered years, Tokyo sees one of the three largest festivals in Japan, the Kanda Matsuri of Kanda Myojin Shrine. This year, the biggest, most spectacular part of the festival is this week-end: May 11 and 12. Saturday, May 11 is the main procession, when Kanda Myojin's o-mikoshi, portable shrines, are paraded … Continue reading Kanda Matsuri: a major spectacle not to be missed
Even when I'm not in Japan I frequently find myself drawn to "things Japanese". So I felt very lucky when I realized I was going to be on the Gold Coast of Queensland, Australia during the annual Japan and Friends Day organized by the Japanese Society of the Gold Coast (held on Saturday, 23 March … Continue reading Japan to the World: A matsuri in Queensland
Tomioka Hachiman Shrine sits in the historic Fukagawa district of Tokyo, a neighborhood that developed and flourished during the Tokugawa shogunate (1602-1868) when Tokyo was known as Edo. Indeed, the history of the shrine, founded in 1627, is inextricably tied to that of Edo. Edo began its life as a fishing village wedged between rivers … Continue reading Tomioka Hachiman Shrine: conflicts, cartography, and other “stuff”
New Year's Day 2019 in Tokyo dawned clear and relatively warm (high of 11C/52F), perfect weather for getting out for a little excursion in search of some luck for the new year. My favorite such activity is a seven lucky gods pilgrimage. It is said that the seven lucky gods sail into harbor on new … Continue reading The Tamagawa Seven Lucky Gods: a bit of local luck
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